Every Thanksgiving table needs a proper roast potato: shatteringly crisp on the outside, fluffy in the middle, and finished in cultured salted butter. The secret is parboiling them with a pinch of baking soda, which roughs up the surface so it crisps beautifully in the oven.

Serves: 8 | Prep: 20 min | Cook: 1 hr 10 min

Ingredients

• 4 lb potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks
• 1½ tsp salt, plus more to finish
• ½ tsp baking soda
• 4 tbsp olive oil
• 4 tbsp cultured salted butter
• 4 cloves garlic, smashed
• A few sprigs of fresh thyme (optional)
• Black pepper

Method

1. Heat the oven to 425°F and put a large, heavy sheet pan in to heat up. Pour the olive oil over the pan while it heats.
2. Put the potatoes in a large pot with cold water to cover, the salt and the baking soda. Bring to a boil and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, until the outsides are soft and just starting to break down.
3. Drain well and let them steam dry in the colander for 5 minutes. Shake the colander firmly so the edges look rough and fluffy. Those rough edges become the crisp bits.
4. Carefully tip the potatoes onto the hot pan and turn them in the oil so each one is coated. Roast for 25 minutes.
5. Turn the potatoes, then dot with the butter and scatter over the garlic and thyme. Roast for another 20 to 25 minutes, until deep golden and crisp.
6. Season with salt and pepper and serve right away.

Notes

• Make ahead: parboil and rough up the potatoes the day before, then refrigerate them uncovered. Roast straight from the fridge.
• Oven space: these need a hot oven, so roast them while the turkey is resting.
• Salt: the butter is salted, so go easy on the final seasoning.